Flooding and Well Water

Total coliform bacteria and E. coli bacteria are used as indicators of bacteriological contamination. The presence of E. coli bacteria indicates that the source of contamination has a fecal origin and there may be more harmful organisms present. If bacteriological contamination is present in the water supply after these storm events, you are encouraged to use bottled water for drinking, cooking, and other uses that may result in direct or indirect ingestion. Boiling the water rapidly for a minimum of one minute can also effectively disinfect water. Persons bathing or washing with water that has been contaminated with fecal matter may also experience an increased risk to health. Therefore, do not use the water for any domestic use until it has been deemed potable for human consumption.


Keep in mind that flood waters entering a well can change the quality of the water and introduce sediment, organic matter and contamination that could overwhelm a treatment system and render it ineffective as a safeguard to bacterial contamination.

In addition to the wells themselves, buried water storage tanks or other water system components can also be vulnerable to contamination. Seek the advice of a professional well driller, water treatment specialist or your local health department if you are not confident about your private water system's integrity.

Typically after floodwaters have receded, wells and storage tanks that have been impacted should be thoroughly flushed, disinfected and tested to ensure that the water is of safe, sanitary quality.

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Ice Dams

An ice dam is a ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and prevents melting snow from draining. As water backs up behind the dam, it can leak through the roof and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas.

How do ice dams form?

Ice dams are formed by an interaction between snow cover, outside temperatures, and heat lost through the roof. Specifically, there must be snow on the roof, warm portions of the upper roof (warmer than 32° F), and cold portions of the lower roof (at freezing or below). Melted snow from the warmer areas will refreeze when it flows down to the colder portions, forming an ice dam.

Although the primary contributor to snow melting is heat loss from the building's interior, solar radiation can also provide sufficient heat to melt snow on a roof. For example, in southern Canada, enough sunlight can be transmitted through 6 inches (150 mm) of snow cover on a clear and sunny day to cause melting at the roof's surface even when the outside temperature is 14° F (-10° C), with an attic temperature of 23° F
(-5° C).

Gutters do not cause ice dams to form, contrary to popular belief. Gutters do, however, help concentrate ice from the dam in a vulnerable area, where parts of the house can peel away under the weight of the ice and come crashing to the ground.


Ice dams are problematic because they force water to leak from the roof into the building envelope. This may lead to:

• rotted roof decking, exterior and interior walls, and framing;
• respiratory illnesses (allergies, asthma, etc.) caused by mold growth;
• reduced effectiveness of insulation. Wet insulation doesn't work well, and chronically wet insulation will not decompress even when it dries. Without working insulation, even more heat will escape to the roof where more snow will melt, causing more ice dams which, in turn, will lead to leaks;
• peeling paint. Water from the leak will infiltrate wall cavities and cause paint to peel and blister. This may happen long after the ice dam has melted and thus not appear directly related to the ice dam.

Avoiding Ice Dams

• Keep the entire roof cold. This can be accomplished by implementing the following measures:　
• Install a metal roof. Ice formations may occur on metal roofs, but the de-sign of the roof will not allow the melting water to penetrate the roof's surface. Also, snow and ice are more likely to slide off of a smooth, metal surface than asphalt shingles.
• Seal all air leaks in the attic floor, such as those surrounding wire and plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, and ceiling light fixtures leading to the attic from the living space below.
• Increase the thickness of insulation on the attic floor, ductwork, and chimneys that pass through the attic.
• Move or elevate exhaust systems that terminate just above the roof, where they are likely to melt snow.
• A minimum of 3" air space is recommended between the top of insulation and roof sheathing in sloped ceilings.
• Remove snow from the roof. This can be accomplished safely using a roof rake from the ground. Be careful not to harm roof-ing materials or to dislodge dangerous icicles.
• Create channels in the ice by hosing it with warm water. Because this process intentionally adds water to the roof, this should be done only in emergencies where a great deal of water is already flowing through the roof, and when temperatures are warm enough that the hose water can drain before it freezes. 

Prevention and Removal Methods to Avoid

• electric heat cables. These rarely work, they require effort to install, they use electricity, and they can make shingles brittle.
• manual removal of the ice dam using shovels, hammers, ice picks, rakes, or whatever destructive items can be found in the shed. The roof can be easily damaged by these efforts, as can the homeowner, when they slip off of the icy roof.

In summary, ice dams are caused by inadequate attic air sealing and insulation, but homeowners can take certain preventative measures to ensure that they are rare.

Heating Flues

The heating flue is a pipe connected to your hot water heater, furnace or boiler that exhausts carbon monoxide to the exterior of the home. The fumes produced by combustion need to go outside or a dangerous condition exists.


The pictures below show flues that are not properly connected to the chimney of the home. Openings are present where gas can leak out into the house. A reading was taken with a carbon monoxide detector - levels were indeed elevated in the basement and the occupants of the home were in danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Check the flue pipe connections on your heating system, or better yet have your oil or gas contractor do it during a tune-up and cleaning. They can be easily fixed but can be fatal if not maintained and checked.

Electric Heat

Electrically heated homes may experience a higher level of indoor humidity because of a lack of a chimney, and therefore, have lower rates of air exchange. Also, since the heat is only dispersed primarily through natural convection it's dispersal can be uneven. The uneven heating through an electric heater can cause cool spots to occur, possibly dropping temperatures to below dew point at some areas, creating condensation.

Make sure your dryer and bathroom fans vent to the outside, that you cover your pots with lids when cooking, and take shorter showers as needed. Eliminate any sources of moisture in the basement and crawl space. In more air-tight houses you may need to partially open a window at times, or add a dehumidifier. Placement of fans or adding a ventilation system to allow forced convection can speed heat flow and help equalize heat in the adjoining rooms, helping to prevent cold spots and condensation from occurring.

When purchasing a home with electric heat check the rooms for any signs of mold and mildew. A likely spot for mold growth is the attic.

Your Home Energy Audit

Scheduling a home energy audit makes great sense. You'll get a detailed report from an expert showing you ways to save money and make your home more energy efficient. Many times you can get the audit for little or no cost - local utility companies sometimes offer free or low cost programs to customers (Connecticut CL&P customers can click on http://www.cl-p.com/home/saveenergy/rebates/homeenergysolutions.aspx). Energy-conservation contractors can provide free or low cost evaluations and also provide the needed services to upgrade the home (one example is http://www.drenergysaver.com). Some home inspectors offer energy audits, but normally for a higher fee and without some of the evaluations listed below. To be effective the audit has to be as comprehensive as possible and must be performed by a professional with the proper training.


Here are some items that need to be a part of any energy audit of your home:

•· Does my audit include a blower door test? Standard for one of the most important aspects of an energy audit, used to check air leakage throughout the home. A must-have for homeowners looking to lower energy bills. Don't skip this.

•· Infrared scanning? IR cameras are used to check temperature variations in the house. The gold standard for measuring how effectively your insulation is working.

•· Duct evaluation? A must if your home uses forced hot or cold air for heating and cooling. Sealing leaky ducts is an easy way to save money.

•· Heating and cooling systems evaluation? Older systems waste energy. Improperly installed systems waste energy and could be a safety hazard.

•· Smoke tools? Like the blower door test, also used to detect air leakage in the home.

When performed by trained energy conservation professionals the home energy audit offers ways to save money and make your home more comfortable.

Aluminum Siding Inspections

Aluminum siding is generally in decline as an exterior cladding material because vinyl siding and other materials have become more popular choices. However, it is still among the most common forms of siding found today. It provided many advantages over other materials when it was introduced in the 1940s. It was installed on many affordable homes through the 1970s. Inspectors will encounter aluminum siding on many home exteriors and can benefit from knowing more about this common form of exterior cladding. Homeowners may be interested in the drawbacks of this material, as well as some of the advantages it still provides in certain situations today.

Aluminum siding is made from aluminum coil stock, which is chemically coated to protect the metal and then painted for further protection, as well as aesthetics. After coating, the siding is baked for durability, with enamel often added to create desired textures.

One of the earliest architectural uses of aluminum came in the 1920s when it was used to produce ornamental spandrel panels for the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building in New York City. By the 1940s, aluminum siding was being produced for use on residential structures, and quickly became popular due to the advantages it provided over other materials in use at the time. A Pennsylvania subdivision built in 1947 was reportedly the first housing project to use solely aluminum siding.

Its popularity remained fairly steady until the 1970s, during the energy crisis. Aluminum siding requires a great deal of energy for production, as well as consumption of a significant amount of raw materials. These factors largely contributed to its decline in use as other forms of exterior cladding became more popular.

Although aluminum siding is seeing less use these days, it possesses some attributes that may be seen as advantageous over other materials in certain situations. There are also some areas where aluminum siding doesn't stack up quite as well as other options. Here are some pros and cons to consider with aluminum siding.

Advantages
•Aluminum siding is very lightweight.

•It is fairly durable. When properly maintained, it can last from 40 years to the life of the structure.

•It accepts the application of paint well and can be painted any desired color.

•Aluminum siding does not rust.

•It is fireproof. In case of fire, it will not burn or melt like other claddings.

•It is waterproof. When properly installed, it provides excellent water-resistant capabilities for exterior walls.

•Since aluminum siding contains no organic material, it will not rot or serve as a source of food for termites.

•An enamel coating baked onto the surface of the siding can mimic the look of other materials, such as wood grain, which gives the siding a more traditional look.

•Aluminum siding is recyclable.

Disadvantages

•Aluminum siding can dent easily, and the damaged area may be difficult to repair or replace. Many siding manufacturers offer a thin backing board of insulation that fits behind each panel. This backing can help protect against dents.

•Although the siding takes the application of paint well, it may need to be repainted every five to 10 years. If any oxidization has occurred, it must be removed before new paint is applied, which can make for a labor-intensive process. In general, repainting aluminum siding requires preparation similar to repainting a car.

•Scratches in the siding will usually be immediately noticeable and unsightly because they can reveal the metal surface below the paint.

•Although aluminum will not rust because it contains no iron, as opposed to steel siding, it can corrode. It can also be stained by the rust on adjacent materials.

•The sound of rain and hail striking it can be loud enough that some people avoid using it for this reason alone.

•Aluminum siding has gone out of style aesthetically, and is generally considered less desirable than both more traditional and newer, modern forms of exterior cladding.

•The production of aluminum siding requires a large amount of energy and raw materials.

Inspection Tips

Here are some things that inspectors can keep in mind while examining exterior walls clad in aluminum siding:

•Since metal siding can conduct electricity, some jurisdictions require that the siding be grounded as a safety measure. Inspectors can check with the local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to find out if grounding is a requirement.

•Aluminum siding can be distinguished from vinyl siding by visual inspection. Any dents in the siding are a clue that it is aluminum, as opposed to vinyl, which may show cracks or breaks.

•Lightly tapping on the siding can also help determine what the material is. Aluminum has a slightly hollow and metallic sound when struck.

•Distinguishing between aluminum and steel siding can be more difficult and may require the use of a magnet, which will interact with steel but not aluminum. Rust spots are another sign that the siding is steel.

•Properly installed aluminum siding should not be in contact with the ground. The AHJ can be consulted for the minimum required clearance.

•If the siding has been installed in contact with the ground or below ground level, outward bulging at the bottom can be an indication that the building sills and/or lower walls have been damaged by rot or pests.

Aluminum siding was very popular in the latter part of the 20th century and is still installed on many homes across the United States today.

Barbeque Safety

With barbeque season coming homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in order to keep their families and property safe.

•Propane grills present an enormous fire hazard, as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is aware of more than 500 fires that result annually from their misuse or malfunction. The following precautions are recommended specifically when using propane grills:

◦Store propane tanks outdoors and never near the grill or any other heat source. In addition, never store or transport them in your car's trunk.

◦Make sure to completely turn off the gas after you have finished, or when you are changing the tank. Even a small gas leak can cause a deadly explosion.

◦Check for damage to a tank before refilling it, and only buy propane from reputable suppliers.

◦Never use a propane barbecue grill on a terrace, balcony or roof, as this is dangerous and illegal.

◦No more than two 20-pound propane tanks are allowed on the property of a one- or two-family home.

◦To inspect for a leak, spray a soapy solution over the connections and watch for bubbles. If you see evidence of a leak, reconnect the components and try again. If bubbles persist, replace the leaking parts before using the grill.

◦Make sure connections are secure before turning on the gas, especially if the grill hasn't been used in months. The most dangerous time to use a propane grill is at the beginning of the barbeque season.

◦Ignite a propane grill with the lid open, not closed. Propane can accumulate beneath a closed lid and explode.

◦When finished, turn off the gas first, and then the controls. This way, residual gas in the pipe will be used up.

•Charcoal grills pose a serious poisoning threat due to the venting of carbon monoxide (CO). The CPSC estimates that 20 people die annually from accidentally ingesting CO from charcoal grills. These grills can also be a potential fire hazard. Follow these precautions when using charcoal grills:

◦Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even if the area is ventilated. CO is colorless and odorless, and you will not know you are in danger until it is too late.

◦Use only barbeque starter fluid to start the grill, and don't add the fluid to an open flame. It is possible for the flame to follow the fluid's path back to the container as you're holding it.

◦Let the fluid soak into the coals for a minute before igniting them to allow explosive vapors to dissipate.

◦Charcoal grills are permitted on terraces and balconies only if there is at least 10 feet of clearance from the building, and a water source immediately nearby, such as a hose (or 4 gallons of water).

◦Be careful not to spill any fluid on yourself, and stand back when igniting the grill. Keep the charcoal lighter fluid container at a safe distance from the grill.

◦When cleaning the grill, dispose of the ashes in a metal container with a tight lid, and add water. Do not remove the ashes until they have fully cooled.

◦Fill the base of the grill with charcoal to a depth of no more than 2 inches.

•Electric grills are probably safer than propane and charcoal grills, but safety precautions need to be used with them as well. Follow these tips when using electric grills:

◦Do not use lighter fluid or any other combustible materials.

◦When using an extension cord, make sure it is rated for the amperage required by the grill. The cord should be unplugged when not in use, and out of a busy foot path to prevent tripping.

◦As always, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Safety Recommendations for General Grill Use

•Always make sure that the grill is used in a safe place, where kids and pets won't touch or bump into it. Keep in mind that the grill will still be hot after you finish cooking, and anyone coming into contact with it could be burned.

•If you use a grill lighter, make sure you don't leave it lying around where children can reach it. They will quickly learn how to use it.

•Never leave the grill unattended, as this is generally when accidents happen.

•Keep a fire extinguisher or garden hose nearby.

•Ensure that the grill is completely cooled before moving it or placing it back in storage.

•Ensure that the grill is only used on a flat surface that cannot burn, and well away from any shed, trees or shrubs.

•Clean out the grease and other debris in the grill periodically. Be sure to look for rust or other signs of deterioration.

•Don't wear loose clothing that might catch fire while you're cooking.

•Use long-handled barbecue tools and flame-resistant oven mitts.

•Keep alcoholic beverages away from the grill; they are flammable!

In summary, homeowners should exercise caution when using any kind of grill, as they can harm life and property in numerous ways.